Far from all diamonds are bright and white. Beyond those graded as colourless, and others with just a trace of yellow to them, lie warmer tones that are a little less bling. Seen by some as more sophisticated, they have lately been catching the attention of jewellery designers and celebrities in the know.
De Beers’ Talisman collection, originally launched 20 years ago, was distinguished not only by its use of rough-cut natural diamonds and finely polished diamonds in the same piece, but also by its palette of desert colours. For the anniversary in 2025, De Beers updated its assortment of pendants, rings and bangles, and now markets them using the new name.
One early A-list adopter to embrace these earthy tones was Scarlett Johansson, whose 11-carat light brown diamond on brown ceramic band – first sighted in 2019 – is thought to be by New York jewellers Taffin, and with its rare cut, is something of a connoisseur’s piece.
Another jeweller who has championed desert-coloured diamonds throughout his career is Beverly Hills-based Neil Lane, particularly in his early days when still working for De Beers.
“I have long appreciated these unique stones,” he says. “From my earliest ring designs, these earthy hues were part of my creative vision, blending beautifully with yellow and pink gold. I have found ways to highlight these coloured stones – what we now call ‘desert diamonds’ – in new and artistic ways.”
